What I love about this wreath is its versatility – this one will be used in our little cottage here in Cornwall continually. I decorate it at Easter with checked ribbon & eggs, in the autumn with pine cones, at Christmas with red ribbon and baubles … you get the idea! The rest of the year, of course, it just sits quietly decorating the wall as it is.

1. Tear (or cut but try not to be ultra-neat) rectangular shapes from your chosen fabric. My wreath measures 25cm in diameter and I have used 120 strips of 7cm x 2cm fabric. I have chosen 2 similar colours; 90 of the paler colour and 30 of the darker colour.
2. Using a simple reef knot, tie each strip of fabric around the frame. My frame has 2 circular wires so I have used the outer wire for this – the inner wire is useful as it helps to keep the fabric flat. Double knot the fabric to prevent it unraveling.

1. Cut 4 x 13cm ribbon pieces, with a 20cmpiece for a bow at the top of the wreath. Space them equally around your frame.
2. If yours will be hung in different locations around the home at different times (as will mine), it may be worth attaching a picture hook or similar to the top of the frame with a small piece of wire. This should be easily hidden from view by the fabric.

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While chairs like this can cost anything up to £200 new, they can also be picked up from around £25 second hand. When I first saw this chair it was quite a vision – it had been painted a striking dark blue with a matching cushion. I imagine it was used in a child’s bedroom or similar, but its cosy and welcoming shape spoke to me immediately and I thought, taken back to white, it could make a decent gift for my Mum. The paint pot was immediately prised open…

1. Clean the chair all over then sand and wipe the woodwork to give a good key and clean the rest of the chair adequately for the paint to adhere.
2. Because my chair was such a vivid colour to begin with (no photo I’m afraid!), I had to apply 3 coats of undercoat all over, leaving the recommended drying time between each coat. Obviously you only need use as many coats as necessary to give your chair a good base colour, but I always think it’s worth spending time on the undercoat(s) as this will affect the overall finish.
3. Apply at least 2 top coats to the main part (excluding the wood), leaving ample drying time between the coats.
4. Paint the woodwork with the satin paint – 2 coats minimum.

1. The foam seat was unusually deep so, with a long (kitchen bread) knife, it was easily (but carefully!) cut in half. If the seat of your chair isn’t in good repair, any shop selling similar foam will usually be cut it to size and shape for you and it’s usually fairly inexpensive.
2. Wadding on top of the foam helped to soften the edges and simply needed to be cut to size, allowing enough to cover the sides of the foam. This did not need stitching into place as it clung to the foam like Velcro!

The most difficult bit of this project was covering the seat. You may find it helpful to read some upholstery guidance at this stage, however this the following worked well for me.

1. Allow yourself plenty of fabric and cut the excess afterwards. I cut my fabric allowing enough to cover the top & sides of the seat, plus a couple of centimetres turned in all the way around (to give a neat edge) AND enough to cover the underneath. I did this in one piece, however, it is probably recommended that you add the piece underneath separately afterwards to give a professional finish. With the fabric underneath (right side down), top with the wadding, then foam, then the upturned seat itself. At this stage I’m sure you will appreciate a second pair of hands to help you keep this steady while you hammer the tacks into the front (straight) edge of the seat first. Work your way around the seat, tacking the fabric to the seat and turning the whole thing the correct way up as you go, to check the fabric is laying smoothly for a neat finish. It is worth taking your time over this and don’t hammer the tacks all the way home (flat) until you have been all the way around, as it can be very difficult to pull out the tacks to adjust the fabric otherwise.

1. When I had covered what would be the top of the seat, I used the excess fabric to cover the underside and tacked it in place.
2. Pop the seat back on and admire your hard work!

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You know how sometimes you come across something which goes in virtually every room of your house? I have two of these lamps, originally pine, which I swap from room to room around the cottage as the mood takes me. With such neutral colours, the shades can be changed with the seasons if necessary.

1. First of all (a little like the Christmas tree lights) you’ll need to check your lamp is in good working order and, if in any doubt, get it re-wired. Then give the whole thing a good wash, followed by a sand with the medium grade sandpaper and wipe with a damp cloth.
2. Paint with the undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. The first coat will probably look very patchy; the second should give a nice even.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends. If you do not allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Use the fine grade sandpaper on the edges and the parts of the lamp which would naturally incur the most wear. Aim for a natural effect which is not too symmetrical.
5. When you are happy with the overall look, wipe the whole piece with a clean damp cloth again to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply at least one coat of wax, leaving it to harden, before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

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Shabby-chic, shabby-vintage, anything but plain shabby! The most difficult decision for me, was what not to do with it. I made this Painted Picture Frame into a chalk board and it was just so quick and easy! It’s so versatile that I’m sure if you could use the same turotial to make lots of frames – all different, but great.

1. Take out the backing board and glass and, after washing the frame thoroughly (and glass, if using), sand the frame lightly to give a key for the paint to adhere to and wipe with a clean cloth.
2. Paint at least 2 coats of undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. If your frame is plastic, like this one, be careful not to ‘overbrush’ the first coat as this can sometimes wipe the wet paint off again. The first coat will probably look very patchy and the second should give a better coverage. Try to ensure you get your paint in all the nooks and crannies.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends. If you do not allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Start sanding the edges and protruding parts of the frame, paying most attention to those parts which would naturally incur the most wear (like the corners) and leaving the deeper crevices un-sanded. The overall effect your are aiming for is natural but not too symmetrical.
5. When you are happy with the overall look, wipe the whole piece with a clean damp cloth to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply a coat of wax, leaving it to harden before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth.

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