While chairs like this can cost anything up to £200 new, they can also be picked up from around £25 second hand. When I first saw this chair it was quite a vision – it had been painted a striking dark blue with a matching cushion. I imagine it was used in a child’s bedroom or similar, but its cosy and welcoming shape spoke to me immediately and I thought, taken back to white, it could make a decent gift for my Mum. The paint pot was immediately prised open…

1. Clean the chair all over then sand and wipe the woodwork to give a good key and clean the rest of the chair adequately for the paint to adhere.
2. Because my chair was such a vivid colour to begin with (no photo I’m afraid!), I had to apply 3 coats of undercoat all over, leaving the recommended drying time between each coat. Obviously you only need use as many coats as necessary to give your chair a good base colour, but I always think it’s worth spending time on the undercoat(s) as this will affect the overall finish.
3. Apply at least 2 top coats to the main part (excluding the wood), leaving ample drying time between the coats.
4. Paint the woodwork with the satin paint – 2 coats minimum.

1. The foam seat was unusually deep so, with a long (kitchen bread) knife, it was easily (but carefully!) cut in half. If the seat of your chair isn’t in good repair, any shop selling similar foam will usually be cut it to size and shape for you and it’s usually fairly inexpensive.
2. Wadding on top of the foam helped to soften the edges and simply needed to be cut to size, allowing enough to cover the sides of the foam. This did not need stitching into place as it clung to the foam like Velcro!

The most difficult bit of this project was covering the seat. You may find it helpful to read some upholstery guidance at this stage, however this the following worked well for me.

1. Allow yourself plenty of fabric and cut the excess afterwards. I cut my fabric allowing enough to cover the top & sides of the seat, plus a couple of centimetres turned in all the way around (to give a neat edge) AND enough to cover the underneath. I did this in one piece, however, it is probably recommended that you add the piece underneath separately afterwards to give a professional finish. With the fabric underneath (right side down), top with the wadding, then foam, then the upturned seat itself. At this stage I’m sure you will appreciate a second pair of hands to help you keep this steady while you hammer the tacks into the front (straight) edge of the seat first. Work your way around the seat, tacking the fabric to the seat and turning the whole thing the correct way up as you go, to check the fabric is laying smoothly for a neat finish. It is worth taking your time over this and don’t hammer the tacks all the way home (flat) until you have been all the way around, as it can be very difficult to pull out the tacks to adjust the fabric otherwise.

1. When I had covered what would be the top of the seat, I used the excess fabric to cover the underside and tacked it in place.
2. Pop the seat back on and admire your hard work!

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You know how sometimes you come across something which goes in virtually every room of your house? I have two of these lamps, originally pine, which I swap from room to room around the cottage as the mood takes me. With such neutral colours, the shades can be changed with the seasons if necessary.

1. First of all (a little like the Christmas tree lights) you’ll need to check your lamp is in good working order and, if in any doubt, get it re-wired. Then give the whole thing a good wash, followed by a sand with the medium grade sandpaper and wipe with a damp cloth.
2. Paint with the undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. The first coat will probably look very patchy; the second should give a nice even.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends. If you do not allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Use the fine grade sandpaper on the edges and the parts of the lamp which would naturally incur the most wear. Aim for a natural effect which is not too symmetrical.
5. When you are happy with the overall look, wipe the whole piece with a clean damp cloth again to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply at least one coat of wax, leaving it to harden, before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

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Is the board showing off the jewellery or the jewellery showing off the board?! I had been saving this fabric (a favourite shirt which I had torn) for something special – with its floaty/romantic feel I think it looks great in the worn-look frame, propped up against a white wall.

Painting the frame

1. Take out the backing board and glass and, after washing the frame thoroughly, sand the frame lightly to give a key for the paint to adhere to and wipe with a clean cloth.
2. Paint at least 2 coats of undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. The first coat will probably look very patchy and the second should give a better coverage. Try to ensure you get your paint in all the nooks and crannies as they are the places that wouldn’t naturally incur much wear.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends – if you don’t allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Start sanding the edges and protruding parts of the frame, paying most attention to those parts which would naturally incur the most wear, like the corners. Leave the deeper crevices un-sanded and try not to be too symmetrical with the ‘wear’.

Wipe the whole frame with a clean damp cloth to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply a coat of wax, leaving it to harden before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth.

Adding your fabric

1. Measure and cut your card to the same size as the backing board of the frame. Measure and cut your fabric to be around 3cm larger all around than the board and cut your cotton (if using) slightly smaller. Also cut your wadding to the same size as the backing board or just slightly smaller.
2. Place your board, right side up, on a flat surface. Stick your wadding centrally on top using double-sided tape along all sides of the card. Place your cotton fabric on top of the wadding (if using), using staples to stick the ‘flaps’ of fabric to the reverse of the board. Repeat with your pretty fabric. Because your fabric pieces are different size, you should avoid problems with trying to staple in the same area. OR if you prefer, pin this into place for the moment. Turn right-side up again.
3. I chose fabric which already had lace and beads attached. If you are using separate lace, you can place it horizontally or vertically – if using ribbon it will need to be horizontal to allow you to ‘hook’ your jewellery between the ribbon and the fabric. Cut it to be 1cm wider/longer than the fabric and place it on the fabric. If you are using lace, sew it all the way along by hand. Because it is padded this should be relatively straight forward, however you may find it easier to detach the fabric from the board first, as already suggested, then secure afterwards. If you are using ribbon, you will need to place it horizontally and stitch it at the sides plus a couple of other places midway to enable your jewellery to slip between the ribbon and fabric. Stitch on the buttons to act at hooks. The buttons I used came from the same original shirt.

Re-assemble the whole frame, adding a picture hook if necessary.

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Shabby-chic, shabby-vintage, anything but plain shabby! The most difficult decision for me, was what not to do with it. I made this Painted Picture Frame into a chalk board and it was just so quick and easy! It’s so versatile that I’m sure if you could use the same turotial to make lots of frames – all different, but great.

1. Take out the backing board and glass and, after washing the frame thoroughly (and glass, if using), sand the frame lightly to give a key for the paint to adhere to and wipe with a clean cloth.
2. Paint at least 2 coats of undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. If your frame is plastic, like this one, be careful not to ‘overbrush’ the first coat as this can sometimes wipe the wet paint off again. The first coat will probably look very patchy and the second should give a better coverage. Try to ensure you get your paint in all the nooks and crannies.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends. If you do not allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Start sanding the edges and protruding parts of the frame, paying most attention to those parts which would naturally incur the most wear (like the corners) and leaving the deeper crevices un-sanded. The overall effect your are aiming for is natural but not too symmetrical.
5. When you are happy with the overall look, wipe the whole piece with a clean damp cloth to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply a coat of wax, leaving it to harden before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth.

The post Painted Picture Frame into a chalk board, a Quick and easy Tutorial appeared first on At Home In Cornwall.