What I love about this wreath is its versatility – this one will be used in our little cottage here in Cornwall continually. I decorate it at Easter with checked ribbon & eggs, in the autumn with pine cones, at Christmas with red ribbon and baubles … you get the idea! The rest of the year, of course, it just sits quietly decorating the wall as it is.

1. Tear (or cut but try not to be ultra-neat) rectangular shapes from your chosen fabric. My wreath measures 25cm in diameter and I have used 120 strips of 7cm x 2cm fabric. I have chosen 2 similar colours; 90 of the paler colour and 30 of the darker colour.
2. Using a simple reef knot, tie each strip of fabric around the frame. My frame has 2 circular wires so I have used the outer wire for this – the inner wire is useful as it helps to keep the fabric flat. Double knot the fabric to prevent it unraveling.

1. Cut 4 x 13cm ribbon pieces, with a 20cmpiece for a bow at the top of the wreath. Space them equally around your frame.
2. If yours will be hung in different locations around the home at different times (as will mine), it may be worth attaching a picture hook or similar to the top of the frame with a small piece of wire. This should be easily hidden from view by the fabric.

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While chairs like this can cost anything up to £200 new, they can also be picked up from around £25 second hand. When I first saw this chair it was quite a vision – it had been painted a striking dark blue with a matching cushion. I imagine it was used in a child’s bedroom or similar, but its cosy and welcoming shape spoke to me immediately and I thought, taken back to white, it could make a decent gift for my Mum. The paint pot was immediately prised open…

1. Clean the chair all over then sand and wipe the woodwork to give a good key and clean the rest of the chair adequately for the paint to adhere.
2. Because my chair was such a vivid colour to begin with (no photo I’m afraid!), I had to apply 3 coats of undercoat all over, leaving the recommended drying time between each coat. Obviously you only need use as many coats as necessary to give your chair a good base colour, but I always think it’s worth spending time on the undercoat(s) as this will affect the overall finish.
3. Apply at least 2 top coats to the main part (excluding the wood), leaving ample drying time between the coats.
4. Paint the woodwork with the satin paint – 2 coats minimum.

1. The foam seat was unusually deep so, with a long (kitchen bread) knife, it was easily (but carefully!) cut in half. If the seat of your chair isn’t in good repair, any shop selling similar foam will usually be cut it to size and shape for you and it’s usually fairly inexpensive.
2. Wadding on top of the foam helped to soften the edges and simply needed to be cut to size, allowing enough to cover the sides of the foam. This did not need stitching into place as it clung to the foam like Velcro!

The most difficult bit of this project was covering the seat. You may find it helpful to read some upholstery guidance at this stage, however this the following worked well for me.

1. Allow yourself plenty of fabric and cut the excess afterwards. I cut my fabric allowing enough to cover the top & sides of the seat, plus a couple of centimetres turned in all the way around (to give a neat edge) AND enough to cover the underneath. I did this in one piece, however, it is probably recommended that you add the piece underneath separately afterwards to give a professional finish. With the fabric underneath (right side down), top with the wadding, then foam, then the upturned seat itself. At this stage I’m sure you will appreciate a second pair of hands to help you keep this steady while you hammer the tacks into the front (straight) edge of the seat first. Work your way around the seat, tacking the fabric to the seat and turning the whole thing the correct way up as you go, to check the fabric is laying smoothly for a neat finish. It is worth taking your time over this and don’t hammer the tacks all the way home (flat) until you have been all the way around, as it can be very difficult to pull out the tacks to adjust the fabric otherwise.

1. When I had covered what would be the top of the seat, I used the excess fabric to cover the underside and tacked it in place.
2. Pop the seat back on and admire your hard work!

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You know how sometimes you come across something which goes in virtually every room of your house? I have two of these lamps, originally pine, which I swap from room to room around the cottage as the mood takes me. With such neutral colours, the shades can be changed with the seasons if necessary.

1. First of all (a little like the Christmas tree lights) you’ll need to check your lamp is in good working order and, if in any doubt, get it re-wired. Then give the whole thing a good wash, followed by a sand with the medium grade sandpaper and wipe with a damp cloth.
2. Paint with the undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. The first coat will probably look very patchy; the second should give a nice even.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends. If you do not allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Use the fine grade sandpaper on the edges and the parts of the lamp which would naturally incur the most wear. Aim for a natural effect which is not too symmetrical.
5. When you are happy with the overall look, wipe the whole piece with a clean damp cloth again to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply at least one coat of wax, leaving it to harden, before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

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As with the majority of my projects, this is one simple, pretty and adaptable. Use whatever lace and fabric scraps you have or, because you’ll need such small pieces, indulge yourself and buy a few special pieces for your lace picture which would usually be too expensive to use on a larger project. A selection of ornate ribbon could work equally as well.

1. Measure and cut your card to the same size as the back of the frame. Measure and cut your fabric to be around 1cm larger all around than the back of your frame.
2. Place your fabric, right side down, on a flat surface. Place your card centrally then apply a strip (or two if the tape is narrow) of double-sided tape along all sides of the card. Use this to stick the ‘flaps’ of fabric to the reverse of the card. You may need to cut the corners of the fabric off to prevent it being too bulky. Turn right-side up again.
3. Cut your pieces of lace and/or ribbon to be 1cm wider than the fabric (2cm wider each side than the back of the frame) and place them on the fabric. Try them in different orders until you achieve your preferred look, using pins to keep them temporarily in place.
4. Turn the whole piece over and use more tape to stick the lace permanently, as you did with the fabric. Turn right-side up again and re-assemble the whole frame (adding a picture hook if needed).

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Is the board showing off the jewellery or the jewellery showing off the board?! I had been saving this fabric (a favourite shirt which I had torn) for something special – with its floaty/romantic feel I think it looks great in the worn-look frame, propped up against a white wall.

Painting the frame

1. Take out the backing board and glass and, after washing the frame thoroughly, sand the frame lightly to give a key for the paint to adhere to and wipe with a clean cloth.
2. Paint at least 2 coats of undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. The first coat will probably look very patchy and the second should give a better coverage. Try to ensure you get your paint in all the nooks and crannies as they are the places that wouldn’t naturally incur much wear.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends – if you don’t allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Start sanding the edges and protruding parts of the frame, paying most attention to those parts which would naturally incur the most wear, like the corners. Leave the deeper crevices un-sanded and try not to be too symmetrical with the ‘wear’.

Wipe the whole frame with a clean damp cloth to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply a coat of wax, leaving it to harden before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth.

Adding your fabric

1. Measure and cut your card to the same size as the backing board of the frame. Measure and cut your fabric to be around 3cm larger all around than the board and cut your cotton (if using) slightly smaller. Also cut your wadding to the same size as the backing board or just slightly smaller.
2. Place your board, right side up, on a flat surface. Stick your wadding centrally on top using double-sided tape along all sides of the card. Place your cotton fabric on top of the wadding (if using), using staples to stick the ‘flaps’ of fabric to the reverse of the board. Repeat with your pretty fabric. Because your fabric pieces are different size, you should avoid problems with trying to staple in the same area. OR if you prefer, pin this into place for the moment. Turn right-side up again.
3. I chose fabric which already had lace and beads attached. If you are using separate lace, you can place it horizontally or vertically – if using ribbon it will need to be horizontal to allow you to ‘hook’ your jewellery between the ribbon and the fabric. Cut it to be 1cm wider/longer than the fabric and place it on the fabric. If you are using lace, sew it all the way along by hand. Because it is padded this should be relatively straight forward, however you may find it easier to detach the fabric from the board first, as already suggested, then secure afterwards. If you are using ribbon, you will need to place it horizontally and stitch it at the sides plus a couple of other places midway to enable your jewellery to slip between the ribbon and fabric. Stitch on the buttons to act at hooks. The buttons I used came from the same original shirt.

Re-assemble the whole frame, adding a picture hook if necessary.

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1. Cut a circle for each jar which measures twice the size of the lid.
2. Fill the old jam jars
3. Place one piece of fabric on top of each jar lid, using the elastic band to keep the fabric in place.
4. Tie your lace/ribbon around the neck, finishing with a simple bow or knot.
5. Place jars in the holder and gasp at how such a quick and easy project can give such great results!

*** The old jam jars don’t even need to have their own lids. I broke the lid to a favourite glass jar recently, and it felt too wasteful to throw so that will make the ideal container. If you ask family/friends they will often have a jar they have kept from Christmas when, if we’re lucky, we receive a jar of something more-ish in a lovely container. It doesn’t have to be glass of course, but it’s a shame not to see the contents when they are as attractive as buttons! Other fillings are endless: sweets, homemade fudge, pebbles, any craft supply or small collectibles…

Special shells just love to show themselves off in glass jars, don’t they?! Just a few pearly shells from your favourite beach holiday in Cornwall can bring back some great memories. Yep, sometimes the simplest things are the best…

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A great alternative to the usual piece of scrap card I usually use, this scented bookmark gives me the odd whiff of lavender.

1. Draw a template onto card and use to cut 2 pieces of felt for the body and one for the wing. From the lace, cut one piece, slightly larger all around, for the body and one piece the same size as the felt for the wing.
2. Layer the lace wing on top of the felt wing, before the lace body on top of one of the felt bodies. Use a few stitches to keep the wing in place.
3. Turn over and stitch your beads or pieces of jewellery as legs to the reverse. Attach on end of your ribbon and cut the other end into a V. Turn right-side up and attach they eye. If you are using an earring for the eye, push it through all piece but be very careful when bending the post at the back – they tend to snap off very easily. For this reason, choose a piece which lends itself to being stitched as well. I choose this flower for its petals which were easy to stitch between without obscuring the stone. Even though I have used ‘invisible’ thread, it would still be seen if you were you look up close. And yes, the post did snap off when I tried to bend it!
4. Stitch the 2nd piece of body felt to the back, leaving a few centimetres open but without cutting you’re your thread. Pour in some lavender and stitch the opening closed.
5. Admire your new scented bookmark and look for other ways to use it – loop the ribbon and hang on a doorknob, from a shelf, to decorate a gift…

As well as a scented bookmark, it also makes a sweet-smelling wardrobe scenter…

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Shabby-chic, shabby-vintage, anything but plain shabby! The most difficult decision for me, was what not to do with it. I made this Painted Picture Frame into a chalk board and it was just so quick and easy! It’s so versatile that I’m sure if you could use the same turotial to make lots of frames – all different, but great.

1. Take out the backing board and glass and, after washing the frame thoroughly (and glass, if using), sand the frame lightly to give a key for the paint to adhere to and wipe with a clean cloth.
2. Paint at least 2 coats of undercoat, leaving to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin. If your frame is plastic, like this one, be careful not to ‘overbrush’ the first coat as this can sometimes wipe the wet paint off again. The first coat will probably look very patchy and the second should give a better coverage. Try to ensure you get your paint in all the nooks and crannies.
3. Apply 2 top coats, allowing more time than the manufacturer recommends. If you do not allow adequate time for the paint to harden properly, the paint will ‘drag’ when you start to sand it.
4. Start sanding the edges and protruding parts of the frame, paying most attention to those parts which would naturally incur the most wear (like the corners) and leaving the deeper crevices un-sanded. The overall effect your are aiming for is natural but not too symmetrical.
5. When you are happy with the overall look, wipe the whole piece with a clean damp cloth to remove the loose paint & sandpaper. Apply a coat of wax, leaving it to harden before ‘buffing’ with a clean cloth.

The post Painted Picture Frame into a chalk board, a Quick and easy Tutorial appeared first on At Home In Cornwall.